行天下|【微纪录片】《徽菜行天下》③：红烧划水青鱼|徽州|邓小平|黄山|高跃水

<br /> 文章图片 <br /> <br /> 俯瞰湿地（刘晓凤） <br /> 鱼鲜对临水而居的屯溪人来说是唾手可得的食材。鱼腩滑嫩、鱼脸味鲜，而在鱼身上还有这么一块“活络肉”——划水。<br /> 划水是鱼尾的一种俗称，指鱼的尾部连尾鳍的一段。由于经常运动,这个部位的肉特别嫩滑。在徽州方言中“划”与“发”谐音，故“红烧划水”也称“烧发水” 。这是早年上海徽馆厨师们根据当地人喜食活肉而创制的鱼菜。宴席中上此菜，蕴含“发达、发家和有余”的意思。<br /> 经<br /> 典<br /> 徽<br /> 菜<br /> 红烧划水 <br /> 菜品简介 <br /> 在徽菜馆中，这一招牌菜又称“青鱼划水” ，是徽菜馆中的传统名菜，也是徽菜中的经典鱼肴之一。此菜所用的原料有草鱼、青鱼等，因青鱼的尾鳍所含胶质层较厚，所烧制的味道更加鲜美，故以青鱼做“划水”为佳。烧制时，不用油煎，仅以少量油滑锅即加调味品在五六分钟内烧成。由于采用急火、短时、快烧的独特烹饪技艺，鱼体内的水分不致损失，不仅能保持鱼肉鲜嫩无比，还能保持鱼肉原汁原味，是最能体现徽菜烹饪特点的菜肴之一。<br /> 人文掌故 <br /> 1974年2月8日，高跃水奉国务院机关事务管理局之命前往邓小平同志家值厨。当时，他见买来的菜中有半条草鱼，而且是尾部，正好符合著名徽菜“红烧划水”的选料标准，霎时激发起他心中久违的徽菜创作欲。于是，当机立断为小平同志做了这道徽菜。小平同志从这盘菜上很快猜测到换了厨师，品尝后非常满意，只是对这红烧鱼的不辣颇有微词。于是，生活秘书便将高跃水介绍给小平同志。小平同志握着他的手表示感谢，然后说:“今天的菜不错，就是这鱼缺少些辣味。 ”高跃水解释说:“首长，这道菜叫红烧划水，是著名的徽菜。按照徽菜的要求，这道菜是不能放辣的。小平同志立即表示赞同:“对，对，各帮菜都不一样，才有特色嘛!”这时他又问:“徽菜？你是哪里人？”高跃水说:“我是徽州人。 ”小平同志说:“徽州？不就在离皖南事变发生地不远的地方吗？徽州是个好地方，徽州人杰地灵。 ”高跃水从此成为中国烹饪史上把徽菜做进小平家的第一个、也是唯一一个徽州人。<br /> 食补养生 <br /> 青鱼肉质细嫩、营养丰富，含丰富的蛋白质、脂肪、钙、磷、铁、维生素B和各种微量元素。此菜有益气、补虚、健脾、养胃、化湿、利水、截疟的功效，还具有抗衰老、抗癌、辅助疾病治疗的作用。<br /> 此菜适宜各类水肿、肝炎、肾炎、脚气病患者，以及脾胃虚弱、气血不足、营养不良、高脂血症、高胆固醇血症、动脉硬化者食用。</p> <div class="dede_pages"><ul><li><a href='#'>上一页</a></li><li class="thisclass"><a href='#'>1</a></li><li><a href='122H555T2021_2.html'>2</a></li><li><a href='122H555T2021_2.html'>下一页</a></li></ul></div> <div class="pcd_ad"> <center><div class="_ahwullr0ac"></div> <script type="text/javascript"> (window.slotbydup = window.slotbydup || []).push({ id: "u6834461", container: "_ahwullr0ac", async: true }); </script> <script type="text/javascript" src="//cpro.baidustatic.com/cpro/ui/cm.js" async="async" defer="defer" > </script></center> </div> <div class="mbd_ad"> <div style=margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:10px;> <div class="_i7aftr79jl"></div> <script type="text/javascript"> (window.slotbydup = window.slotbydup || []).push({ id: "u5950612", container: "_i7aftr79jl", async: true }); </script>  <script type="text/javascript" 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